This really smells like a Georgian qvevri Rkatsiteli – and that isn’t a total surprise, as the blend was fermented on its skins in qvevris. The blend has always focused on aromatic and semi-aromatic varieties including Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, but in recent vintages also includes Muscaris, one of the disease resistant Hybrids that Freddie and Manuel have been growing and trialing over the last decade.
Great structure, with solid but ripe tannins. Savoury, baked apple flavours with excellent citrussy freshness on the finish. There is a definite lift from the Sauvignon and the Gelber Muskateller, but neither dominates or steals the show here.
This is a range of wines that has been consistently improving over the last six years (my experience of them doesn’t go any further back)